A stimulating reflection of Mughal opulence and intricacy, the Banarasi weave has carved a niche for itself worldwide. Often a favourite ornament to complement the crimson flush of the bride, the Banarasi is a woven tale of fantasy and elegance. It has journeyed through time and people, draping itself around the royal highness while adoring the curves of the women of nobility. The Banarasi weave marries the richness of Persian motifs to the extensiveness of Indian handicrafts presenting a glorious spread, rooted in colliding traditions. Originating from Varanasi, the weave finds rich mention through historic texts and even in the Mahabharata and Buddhist scriptures. It is believed that Akbar patronised the art of saree weaving and from it came the beautiful Banarasi weave. At first, the yarn is processed to prepare it for dyeing. The artisan chooses from a palette of colours and mixes them accordingly. In the earlier times, the artisans used naturally processed dyes to bring out the vibrancy of the colours although now, artisans choose between natural and artificial colours, based on their preference. The dyeing of the yarn follows a process similar to that of tie and dye. The yarns are dyed in different colours to get the desired combination for the weave. This process is repeated until the yarns are dyed in the required colours. The coloured yarns are then washed and left to dry. The dyed yarns are separated to prepare for the warp and weft processes. The weaver then takes to the spinning wheel to spin the threads into spools. The spools are prepared and loaded to the fly shuttle. The threads that fill up through the fly shuttle make up the weft. Meanwhile, the warp threads are set by spreading them lengthwise to create pulls that are rolled to a beam. The beam is then set on the loom to wrap up the warping and weft processes.
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